Poco F1 Review

• Nillkin H (and H+ Pro) (Poco F1) : Fully covers display. Recommended. H+ Pro can be used if you want thinner tempered glass & don't mind paying a bit more for it.

Audio Quality

The F1 has a bottom loudspeaker + earpiece stereo combo (no need to fuck up mixer_paths for stereo) & a headphone jack.

The speaker quality is passable, with the earpiece being drowned out by the main speaker. Sound wise, it's somewhat shrill, though it's fine otherwise.

The headphone jack quality is kinda passable. Loudness wise, it squarely falls into "average" territory. Positioning of the jack is the 2nd best, staying out of the way when held in landscape without compromising speaker position, though costing an additional hand in landscape grip.

Display

To start, let me clarify that I have changed the F1's display more than 8 times. The 6.18' 18.7:9 notched 60hz LCD panel found in both the original (I had the FTS as far as I could remember) & the knockoff (referred as "OEM" since that's the only ones I can find; I usually find them as NVT, but they may also come as FTS) displays are passable (whites seem a bit cold, refresh rate serviceable, iPhone notch & weird corners are geh). I will list the entire review, which can be found below.

• Both the original & "OEM" had decent colors, though the "OEM" seems better. However, the "OEM" panel displays some kind of blue shift when viewed from an angle. I couldn't replicate this on other LCD phones.
• Both original & "OEM" have uneven backlighting that can be seen on the borders.
• The glass used on the "OEM" panel feels worse than the original. Not only does the "OEM" glass scratch easier (for example, when scratched by a razor blade), it also lacks any kind of oleophobic coating, making them feel greasy & slippery after some active use. This flaw can be mitigated with a screen protector, but still.
• Random touches are present in both, though the FTS "OEM" is more likely to display such behavior.
• Sometimes, the "OEM" display doesn't respond to touches. While turning it off, pressing it hard, & turning it back on again works, this is annoying. Happens in both NVT & FTS "OEM".
• The original display has a minor display retention issue, which is evident when seen in gray backgrounds. While it fades away after a while, it's annoying enough that I ended up moving off the original. As far as I can remember, the original display mentioned here is the original one I got with the phone.
• The "OEM" is more likely to produce dead pixel(s), though it is random.
• The display themselves (both original & "OEM") have a notch similar to the iPhone notch, but with some extreme rounded corners. This corner cutting (pun not intended) strikes me as trying too hard to be terrible.
If you're trying to make a cheap flagship killer & try to cut corners on the display, why not use Mi A2's 18:9 LCD instead? Not only would you save some resources off R&D, you also get to keep all the extra space for more stuff, such as a better front-facing modules (such as earpiece / second speaker... or the frontcam too).

So, in conclusion : Both the original & "OEM" displays were decent, though their issues could be problematic. Considering the litany of cheaper secondhand devices, some of which were past flagships, it's not something I enjoy using. In a nutshell, beware of "OEM" displays & make sure to ask your seller for the display's originality whenever you can (be sure you can trust that seller though).

Bootloader unlocking

This is the worst part of the F1, no questions asked. You need a Xiaomi account, have to submit your cellphone number to Xiaomi servers, and use a proprietary Windows-only application to unlock its bootloader. That, combined with 72 real-world hours (maybe even more, up to a week / 2 at worst) of wait time (which gets triggered somewhere around the unlocker app as far as I remember), makes it the worst. With Xiaomi's server getting less reliable nowadays, good luck.

Repairability

In terms of repairability, the Poco F1 is quite easy once the back shell is off.

• Back shell requires removing the microSD / SIM tray & 2 T3 screws (which can be replaced by some Philips screws if you find suitable ones) flanking the USB-C port before it can be pried off. While prying off the back shell doesn't require any heat and/or suction cup, the clips connecting midframe & back shell can be tough, especially on the corners (though not as tough as the Mi A1). Care should be taken around the power & volume buttons (both when prying & re-attaching) to avoid damaging them. The shell also has the camera bump & fingerprint scanner adhered to it (which can't be fully removed yet - connector's stuck behind motherboard cover), with a decently long ribbon that won't readily tear on removal unless you've pulled the back shell a bit too hard.
• Motherboard cover (which doubles as flash module) is stuck with 10 Philips screws, whereas bottom speaker & daughterboard cover are stuck with 7 Philips screws. The cover screws are different in size & length, so you kinda need to sort them out, particularly 2 at bottom cover flanking USB-C port & the 2 on top-left & top-right part of the motherboard cover, though they are differently colored from their surroundings so you should notice them.
• microSD / SIM reader's soldered on the motherboard, though that's common for every phone nowadays except for ASUS ZS630KL / Zenfone 6 2019 / 6z (AFAIK). It's mounted on the back side of the motherboard, but you don't need to worry about it since the tray is removed before the back shell.
• Battery features orange static pull tabs meant to ease removal, and for first removal, the battery is lightly adhered to the plastic wrapping, which in turn is adhered somewhat heavily to the frame.
• Every removable component except for antenna cable, flash module, notification light, speakers & vibration motor (which uses contact pins) connects to the motherboard using Lego-like BTBs. Those BTBs are not designed with repairability in mind, as some of them features various capacitors around it, making removals requiring some precision.
• The power & volume buttons are adhered to the midframe & are on the same ribbon cable, forcing a replacement of both if either stops working. And it's easy to accidentally break the switches while prying and re-attaching back shell, so hoarding spares are highly recommended for this one.
• Headphone jack is soldered to motherboard, so if it breaks, your Poco F1 is essentially jackless unless you are good at microsoldering (or find someone who does). However, mine still works reliably after whatever time the F1's on me, so there's that.
• USB-C port is on the daughterboard, which is held in with some adhesive.
• Display is very much glued in place, so say goodbye to it if you ever wanted to try harvesting the earpiece grille and/or replace the entire thing for the 1st time (if sticking to same midframe). Then again, your display's probably beyond any helping in that scenario, so good luck.

Teardown references :